Pot de crème Lily Ambre, étiquette liste INCI peu d'ingrédients pour un produit sain

Deciphering the INCI list of cosmetic products: what you need to know

Laboratoire Aimée

Decoding a cosmetic label is a bit like discovering an unknown language: confusing at first glance, but full of meaning for those who take the time to understand it. Behind these often unpronounceable Latin or English words, the INCI list hides a valuable compass for those who want to care for themselves consciously.

Mandatory on all beauty products, it can become a valuable ally, provided you know how to interpret it. For women attentive to their hormonal balance, their children’s health, and the impact of their actions on the planet, learning to read this list is already choosing a more informed beauty.

In this article, we guide you step by step to identify endocrine disruptors and make safer, more confident, and more transparent choices.

 

 

What is the INCI list?

The INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) catalogs all the ingredients contained in a cosmetic product, whether it’s a facial care product, shampoo, or perfume. Created in the United States in 1973 and made mandatory in Europe in the late 1990s, it aims to standardize labeling for greater transparency. It appears on all packaging, often printed in small print on the back of bottles, yet it reveals everything.

Names are written in Latin for natural extracts (e.g., Aqua for water) or in English for chemical substances (e.g., Castor oil for castor oil).

 

 

How to read the INCI list of a cosmetic product?

 

The order of ingredients

Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration. Those appearing first are therefore the most abundant. But beware: ingredients present at less than 1% may be listed in any order, which can downplay the presence of controversial substances.

 

The main ingredient families

Here are the most common categories:

  • Water (Aqua): often at the top, it forms the base of many products.
  • Plant extracts: identifiable by the word extract. They are known for their soothing or antioxidant properties.
  • Vegetable / essential oils: identified by oil, they nourish and protect the skin (e.g., Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, or Argan vegetable oil).
  • Alcohols: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol (fatty, gentle) vs alcohol denat. (more irritating).
  • Preservatives: in organic products, only certain ones are allowed (sorbic acid, benzoic acid…).
  • Perfume / fragrance: a vague term, especially in conventional products, as it can hide many molecules, often controversial or dangerous.
  • Organic or natural ingredients: often marked with an asterisk (*), with a legend at the bottom of the label.

 

 

Endocrine disruptors: how to spot them in the INCI list?

Substances capable of interfering with our hormonal system even at very low doses, these disruptors are found in cosmetics. Their impact is particularly concerning for children, pregnant women, or during hormonal transition periods.

Here is a list of the most commonly found endocrine disruptors in cosmetics:

  • Parabens: methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben;
  • Phenoxyethanol;
  • Triclosan;
  • Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (chemical UV filter);
  • Octocrylene;
  • BHT, BHA (synthetic antioxidants);
  • Siloxanes: cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane, etc.;
  • Phthalates: often hidden under perfume/fragrance;

Phthalates, commonly used as fixatives, are still frequent in conventional perfumes. They pose a well-documented risk, especially with repeated exposure. To better understand how these substances sneak into our bottles and what safer alternatives exist, check out our full article on endocrine disruptors in perfumes.

  • Alkylphenols;
  • Benzophenone-1, -3, -4;
  • Toluene;
  • Petrolatum / liquid paraffin (petrochemical derivatives that may contain impurities);
  • PEG (polyethylene glycols): followed by a number (e.g., PEG-40);

Although endocrine disruptors are regulated for the most part, they are not necessarily banned. There may be limits on quantities or forms (for example, a ban on nanoparticles) or even both.

It is important to pay attention to endocrine disruptors because although regulations exist to protect us, they do not take into account the cocktail effect; that is, the accumulation of several products containing endocrine disruptors. Learning to identify them becomes essential to minimize your exposure as much as possible. When this exposure accumulates over time, it can also be helpful to adopt some simple habits to naturally eliminate endocrine disruptors.

To go further: check out our list of dangerous cosmetic products.

 

 

Tools to more easily decode the INCI list

Fortunately, apps accessible to everyone can help you see things more clearly:

  • INCI Beauty: by scanning a barcode, you get an ingredient analysis with a color code indicating their risk level (endocrine disruptor, allergen, irritant, etc.). A useful tool, provided you understand the difference between endocrine disruptors and allergens, which affect different biological mechanisms and have different consequences.
  • Yuka: very popular, it shows an overall rating and allows you to view problematic ingredients. By clicking on each ingredient, you can see if it is an endocrine disruptor and discover its impact on health and even on the environment.

These tools make the transition to safer products easier, but be careful not to trust them blindly: they don’t replace critical thinking or knowledge.

 

 

Choose your cosmetics wisely: tips for healthy beauty

Here are some simple steps to adopt a healthier routine that respects your hormonal balance:

  • Choose short ingredient lists: fewer ingredients often mean fewer risks.
  • Avoid risky synthetic substances: phthalates, parabens, PEG, BHA, etc.
  • Favor transparent and committed brands that clearly display their composition and exclude endocrine disruptors.
  • Rely on recognized certifications: Cosmos Organic, Cosmébio, Nature & Progrès. These labels ban many controversial ingredients, including endocrine disruptors.
  • Beware of greenwashing: "natural" or "hypoallergenic" does not mean free of disruptors. Learn to read beyond marketing promises.
  • Turn to responsible brands: a pioneer in natural and sensory fragrance, the house Aimée de Mars is committed to beauty that respects the body, soul, and Earth. Its formulations strictly exclude endocrine disruptors, in a spirit of sincerity and care.

 

 

Key takeaways

Decoding the INCI list is like lifting the veil on what you apply to your skin every day. It’s an act of awareness, but also of love for yourself, others, and the planet.

By identifying endocrine disruptors, using the right tools, and trusting committed brands, you can take back control of your beauty routine. Because behind every choice lies an intention. And choosing safe skincare is already a way of caring.

 

 

Sources

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