Table of Contents

Current perfumery

From aromachology to Aromaparfumerie®

Natural: tenfold effectiveness

The Danger of Polycyclic Musks

Lavender

Bergamot

Rosemary

Pink

Vanilla

Myrrh

Ylang Ylang

Incense

Sandalwood

Clary sage

Conclusion

Glossary

Bibliography

                                                 

Current perfumery

Perfumery has evolved considerably over the past fifty years, and today 80% of the retail price of a perfume is made up of advertising, marketing, and sales. The fragrance composition now represents only a tiny fraction of the budget, which severely limits the choice of materials. Thus, only synthetic products are possible to meet the draconian constraints imposed on creators, where advertising takes precedence over the quality of ingredients.

In the 1960s, perfumes still contained 75% natural products and 25% synthetic products. Today, the percentage of natural products is well below 25%. The main causes of this decline are, of course, due to advances in synthetic chemistry, but above all to the conditions imposed on this type of production, its price, and new regulations.

Another important factor in the evolution of the use of natural products is mass production . A launch in a large perfume house starts with a ton of concentrate. In these proportions, it is complicated to use only natural materials. ^[1]

From aromachology to Aromaparfumerie®

Aromatherapy is a branch of phytotherapy. It was created by the chemist Gattefossé in 1910. It involves the use of essential oils for therapeutic purposes. It is a natural therapy based on the relationship between the chemical components of essential oils and the resulting therapeutic activities. Essential oils are chosen based on their composition, where each molecule has certain physical properties. ^[2]

Smell is the only one of our senses that does not directly access consciousness. The olfactory message that we perceive when we smell an odor first passes through the unconscious, via the limbic system. This part of the brain is the seat of our emotions , and plays a major role in our everyday behavior. The limbic system is also the place where memory is formed; this is why an odor is systematically associated with a memory. Each person then perceives an odor differently, depending on their life and olfactory experiences.

This is how the smell we breathe triggers physiological reactions without us being aware of it. In addition to this positive (pleasure of the smell) or negative (refusal, escape) behavior, the smell also triggers a specific reaction in our organism. ^[3]

Unlike aromatherapy, olfactotherapy uses the evocative power of smells to treat a patient's ailments or addictions. It is a psycho-energetic therapy that stems from aromachology, a science that studies the influence of smells on behavior, mood, and the psyche (a term first used in 1982). By searching for the emotions created by certain smells, the patient can find the origin of the problem and associate a new smell with it, this time with a positive emotion. This therapy is very effective against addictions. ^[4]

The first olfactotherapy perfume was created by the Egyptians in ancient Egypt; Kyphi ^[5] . It was a remedy for respiratory conditions such as asthma or lung diseases. It was used in particular for fumigation, exhaling a sweet vapor. It is described in this way by Plutarch in Isis and Osiris:

"This vapor, insinuating itself into the body by means of the breath, rocks it in a gentle and imperceptible manner, invites it to sleep, and spreads around it a delicious influence. The daily worries, which are like so many painful chains, lose their pain and their intensity; they weaken and loosen, without the help of intoxication. Acting also on the imagination, a faculty so powerful in dreams, these exhalations make it in some way clear as the most even mirror. The effect obtained is no less marvelous than that of the sounds of the lyre, which the Pythagoreans used before tasting sleep. In this way the troubles and disorders of the soul are charmed and softened. Moreover, odors have more than once revived the feeling that was vanishing; more than once they have calmed and soothed the nervous system by the subtlety of their influence: just as, according to some doctors, sleep occurs after the stomach has received food.

Aromaparfumerie® is the alliance of beautiful perfumery and the power of plants according to the principles of aromatherapy and olfactotherapy. It enhances the art of perfumery by using the evocative power of scents and the healing properties of essential oils. An active heart composed of 21 essential oils is present in each perfume and acts on the psyche to provide general well-being. The materials that surround it then create the unique trail of fragrances and symbolize a character, a personality. Each perfume has a specific action and provides joy of living, relaxation, and as many feelings as essential oils can convey.

Natural: tenfold effectiveness

Essential oils, resins, and absolutes are extracted directly from the plant. These natural materials are the soul of the plant . The plant grows by capturing sunlight and transforming it to create its own energy; the essential oil extracted from it therefore contains all this information.

Synthetic materials in perfumery are man-made through chemical reaction processes. Unlike natural materials, which are complexes composed of numerous odorous molecules, synthetic materials are generally based on a single molecule, more or less purified. In addition, the starting molecules, which after reactions form the final molecule, do not contain the same vibrational message , no energy coming from nature itself. Thus, the compound formed does not have exactly the same biochemical properties since it is an isolated molecule, and the energetic aspect is not at all identical to the natural molecule.

The quantum mechanism of olfaction largely explains this phenomenon. Indeed, our olfactory receptors would function exactly like a scanning tunnel spectroscope. Thus, molecules would no longer be recognized by their shape, but rather by their energy, proportional to their vibrational frequency. Molecules would then have a much broader message than the simple characteristics studied in classical physics, notably because of the wave/particle duality, non-separability, and all the concepts introduced by quantum mechanics. ^[6]

"Finally, the fact that an essential oil is more than the sum of its constituent molecules and that the entire plant is found in the latter can easily be explained only within this topological and quantum framework. Indeed, the wave/corpuscle duality has the consequence that each molecule is a priori in instantaneous contact with the entire universe via correlations between quantum phases. The essential oil must therefore be perceived as an inseparable unit that it is perfectly ridiculous to analyze solely in terms of constituent chemical molecules. This materialist and reductionist approach would be perfectly reasonable if the world functioned like classical physics. In a quantum world, it is possible to code the informational content of any individual animal or plant in an aqueous volume of 0.1 mm3! ... We should therefore not be surprised by the fact that a simple smell can be capable of evoking the plant or animal in its smallest details, or even of holistically and globally treating an organic or cellular dysfunction. » Professor Marc HENRY, Quantum Aspects of the Sense of Smell, 2012. ^[7]

The active core is composed of 21 essential oils that work synergistically. Part of its action is described in the rest of this file, where ten of the essential oils that make up the majority of it are exposed.

The Danger of Polycyclic Musks

A recent study ^[8] conducted by Greenpeace showed that many perfume brands use polycyclic synthetic musks in large quantities, at percentages of up to 45% of the perfume. These chemicals are known to be contaminants of blood and breast milk, and are strongly suspected of being hormone disruptors. Current regulations do not prohibit the use of these dangerous substances, but only of a few molecules such as musk ambrette, Galaxolide or musk xylene. Even if the consequences are still unknown for the future of humanity, interference with the hormonal regulation system is very real, due to their similarity to steroids (testosterone, estrogen, progesterone, cortisone).

Furthermore, these products are very persistent in the environment , in aquatic environments or in the atmosphere. These compounds are found even in rainwater, as demonstrated by a study carried out in the Netherlands in 2003; musk ambrette, then banned since 1995 in the EU, was found in 34% of the control locations.

Aimée de Mars® fragrances are formulated without polycyclic musks. Only two macrocyclic musks are used because these molecules are naturally present in ambrette oil (Hibiscus family).

Lavender

Latin name: Lavandula angustifolia

Botanical family: Lamiaceae

Origin: Drome, France

Properties ^{[2][4[9][10][11][12]}

The benefits of lavender have been known for thousands of years, and its essential oil is the most widely used in aromatherapy. Its beneficial effects are largely explained by its high proportion of linalyl acetate and linalool. These two chemotypes have regulatory effects on neurotransmitters, and therefore act on the brain, hormonal system, and immune system.

Fine Lavender essential oil	linalyl acetate	40-50%
	1,8-cineole	1.50%
	beta caryophyllene	8.00%
	ocimene	7-13%
	linalool	30-40%

Table 3: Chemical composition of lavender essential oil

Linalyl acetate	cardiac regulator, antispasmodic, calming, hypotensive, sedative
linalool	calming, neurotonic, immune modulator, antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, antiparasitic
1,8-cineole	anti-fungal, anti-viral, respiratory decongestant, expectorant, immune modulator
beta caryophyllene	anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, calming, hypotensive
ocimene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant

Table 4: Properties of lavender chemotypes

It has an extraordinary rebalancing power because it acts on the psyche, and moderates extremes. Due to its regulating effect, it is also effective against depressive disorders and anxiety, stress, emotionality and fears. It can be stimulating, but also calm the nerves, and facilitate sleep. It has a harmonizing effect on the cardiovascular system and on tension. Its particularity is that it acts as a catalyst, therefore has a synergistic effect with other oils (often associated with bergamot).

Lavender efficacy tests

Insomnia

An experiment ^[13] was conducted on 158 women in the postnatal period . Pregnancy is a period during which sleep can become disrupted, leading to concentration problems, a decrease in enthusiasm for daily life, and an increase in irritability. The objective of this study conducted by Zanjan University of Medical Sciences was to observe the effects of aromatherapy and more specifically lavender on sleep.

The group was randomly divided into two. Each woman in the first group was asked to sniff a cotton ball dipped in lavender essential oil ten times in a row, then leave the ball on her pillow overnight. The procedure was performed four times a week for eight weeks. The second group followed the same procedure but with a placebo (sesame oil).

This study therefore showed that the quality of sleep in women during the postnatal period (essentially the time taken to fall asleep) was improved more quickly for women who had used lavender essential oil.

In Korea, a second study ^[14] was conducted on insomnia and depression , for 4 weeks on 44 female students. The protocol was as follows: one week of control, one week with 60% lavender essential oil, one week of rest, then one week with 100% lavender essential oil. At the end of the protocol, sleep, time to fall asleep, and sleep satisfaction were improved from the 60% phase. Depression symptoms improved from the 100% phase.

A third study ^[15] was conducted in Iran on insomnia in intensive care patients . The study was conducted for three days on 64 patients, both male and female, hospitalized in intensive care. The study then showed a significant difference between the two groups after aromatherapy treatment.

Anxiety

The study ^[16] conducted by Celal Bayar University in Turkey involved a group of 95 students , 45 of whom were in the control group, during a school test. Each group was placed in a room with closed doors and windows, 15 minutes before the test, and lavender was diffused. The test was therefore carried out in an atmosphere of lavender, and lasted 60 minutes. The control group was in the same conditions, without the lavender.

The results (indicative scale) are as follows:

Figure 1: Results of the anxiety test and the test carried out

So there is no significant difference in the test results, but there is a significant gap in the anxiety felt by students with and without the lavender diffusion.

Relaxation

The study ^[17] was conducted by Chiba University in Japan on 30 healthy men between 24 and 40 years old. Cortisol levels, CFVR (coronary artery blood flow), pulse rate and blood pressure were measured during 30 minutes of olfaction of lavender essential oil.

Blood pressure and pulse rate did not change significantly during the experiment, however, cortisol levels dropped significantly (from 8.4 to 6.3) and CFVR increased (3.8 to 4.7).

Figure 2: Evolution of cortisol levels during the experiment

The change in cortisol levels in the control group is shown in white, and that of the study group in black.

Figure 3: Evolution of CFVR during the experiment

Bergamot

Latin name: citrus bergamia

botanical family: Rutaceae

origin: Italy

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10] [18]}

The virtues of bergamot are also well known in aromatherapy. Indeed, it also has a calming and tranquilizing effect thanks to its nervous regulatory action (ortho and parasympathetic) and a stimulating and invigorating aspect in the opposite case. It is therefore useful in cases of anxiety, agitation, nervousness and stress but also for depression, concentration and nervous fatigue. It restores hope and helps to be positive and is similar to lavender (it has a very similar composition) by its anxiolytic, neuro-sedative properties. Furocoumarins add a strong regulatory effect on the nervous system.

Bergamot essential oil	linalyl acetate	30-45%
	limonene	30-45%
	furocoumarin	5.00%
	linalool	10-25%

Table 5: Chemical composition of bergamot essential oil

 

Linalyl acetate	cardiac regulator, antispasmodic, calming, hypotensive, sedative
limonene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant
linalool	calming, neurotonic, immune modulator, antibacterial, antiviral, antiparasitic
coumarin	hepato-pancreatic stimulant, nervous sedative, hypotensive, anti-parasitic

Table 6: Properties of bergamot chemotypes

Bergamot Efficacy Tests

Stress

In Taiwan, a study ^[19] was conducted on the stress of primary school teachers. The objective of this study was to measure the impact of bergamot essential oil on the regulation of the autonomic nervous system. It was conducted on 54 teachers from three different schools.

The first step consisted of measuring each teacher's anxiety level and then dividing them into three groups: low anxiety, mild anxiety, and moderate anxiety. Each teacher then sat for 10 minutes, without activity, and bergamot essential oil was diffused. During this period, followed by a 7-minute post-test period, blood pressure and heart rate variability were measured.

Teachers treated with bergamot EO diffusion all exhibited decreased blood pressure, decreased heart rate, and increased parasympathetic nervous activity, indicating that bergamot essential oil appears to be bringing autonomic nervous system activity into balance.

A second ^[20] study was conducted in Kyoto on 41 women . Each of them was subjected to three different stages: rest, rest + water vapor, rest + water vapor + bergamot essential oil, each stage lasting 15 minutes. After each stage, saliva was collected to measure cortisol levels. At the end of the experiment, the cortisol level during the rest + water vapor + bergamot essential oil stage was lower than that of the stage consisting only of rest.

 

Rosemary

Latin name: rosmanirus officinalis verbenoniferum

Botanical family: Lamiaceae

origin: DROME

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][21]}

Rosemary verbenone essential oil	1,8-cineole	10-15%
	bornyl acetate	10-15%
	alpha pinene	45-55%
	camphene
	Camphor	15-20%
	verbenone

Table 7: Chemical composition of rosemary verbenone essential oil

 

1,8-cineole	anti-viral, respiratory decongestant, expectorant, immune modulator
camphene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant
bornyl acetate	anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, calming, hypotensive, sedative
verbenone	anti-parasitic, anti-viral, cholagogue, choleretic, desclerosing, endocrine balancing, lipolytic, central nervous system stimulant, narcotic, sympathicotonic
camphor	anti-parasitic, anti-viral, cholagogue, desclerosant, central nervous system stimulant, narcotic, sympathicotonic
alpha pinene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant

Table 8: Properties of verbenone rosemary chemotypes

Rosemary verbenone is the most active rosemary when it comes to hormonal problems. It is known for its effectiveness on concentration and overwork. It is indeed a very useful nerve balancer against nervousness, irritation, mood swings, but also stress, emotionality and anxiety. It also acts against fatigue, whether physical or intellectual, as a tonic and increases the concentration and efficiency of overworked adults. It strengthens memory skills and is said to be a good remedy for the elderly, those suffering from Alzheimer's disease, or suffering from nervous degeneration.

Rosemary Efficacy Tests

Stress

Meikai University in Japan conducted a study ^[22] on 22 volunteers . The subjects were asked to smell rosemary essential oil for 5 minutes and saliva was collected immediately.

Figure 4: Evolution of cortisol levels

The results show a clear decrease in cortisol levels between the control test (containing only propylene glycol).

Concentration and memory

A study ^[23] conducted in 2003 on 144 participants showed that inhaling rosemary improved memory by 75%. The group was divided into 3, one group was not to smell anything, one group smelled lavender and one group rosemary, then the people performed memory tests. The two groups that did not inhale rosemary showed a significant delay compared to the group that inhaled this essential oil. The quality and performance of their memory were boosted.

Pink

Latin name: Rosa damascena

Botanical family: Rosaceae

Origin: Bulgaria

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][24]}

Rose essential oil	citronellol	60-80%
	geraniol
	citronellyl acetate	10-15%
	phenylethical alcohol	5-10%

Table 9: Chemical composition of rose essential oil

citronellol	antibacterial, anti-parasitic, anti-viral, immune modulator, neurotonic
geraniol	antibacterial, anti-parasitic, anti-viral, immune modulator, neurotonic

Table 10: Properties of rose chemotypes

Rose has a strong balancing and harmonizing effect through its regulating action on the endocrine system. It therefore acts as a tonic for the nervous and cardiovascular systems and as a lymphatic stimulant. It is also de-stressing, relaxing, and fulfilling with its aphrodisiac side. It facilitates letting go and helps overcome wounds without bitterness or desire for revenge.

Rose Efficacy Tests

Relaxation

A study ^[25] was conducted at Chiba University in Japan on 20 female students . Air impregnated with rose essential oil (0.2 μL) was injected into a 24-liter bag held approximately 10 cm from each subject's nose. Physiological effects were determined by infrared spectroscopy (Oxy-Hb concentration) and psychological effects were determined by a more subjective study consisting of rating the following pairs of adjectives: "comfortable/uncomfortable, relaxed/agitated, natural/unnatural" on a qualitative scale. The room was then ventilated for 7 minutes between each person.

Olfactory stimulation by rose essential oil therefore induced a significant decrease in oxy-Hb in the right prefrontal cortex. In the left prefrontal cortex, it also tended to decrease, but less obviously. This therefore translates into a decrease in the activity of the prefrontal cortex and therefore physiological relaxation.

Figure 5: Evolution of oxy-Hb concentration during olfaction

Figure 6: Results of the psychological study

In the psychological study, we see that for rose essential oil, the feeling of comfort, naturalness, and relaxation was significantly higher than the control group. Rose essential oil therefore allows for physiological and psychological relaxation.

Stress

In Japan, a study ^[26] was conducted on 16 students (8 men and 8 women). Their saliva was collected before the experiment, then rose essential oil was diffused for 40 minutes, and then the saliva was collected again.

Figure 7: Cortisol levels in men and women before and after diffusing essential oils

It is clear that the cortisol level decreased during the experiment, which translates into a decrease in nervous activity and stress.

Also in Japan, a second study ^[27] was conducted on 14 female students , each given a rose scent patch. Saliva concentration and cortisol concentration were measured 21 days before the exams, then 3 days after the start, and just at the end of the exam period.

Figure 8: Evolution of cortisol concentration during the experiment

Vanilla

Latin name: vanilla fragans

botanical family: orchidaceae

origin: magagascar / comoros

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][28]}

Vanilla essential oil

Vanillin

90.00%

Table 11: Composition of vanilla essential oil

Vanillin

anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, anxiolytic, psychotonic, calming

Table 12: Properties of vanilla chemotypes

Its scent is associated with warmth and relaxation. It also acts as a pheromone (a substance that induces physiological or behavioral reactions) between individuals of the same species, and has a modulating effect on the release of serotonin (a neurotransmitter that allows nerve impulses to be transmitted between neurons). It is therefore reassuring and comforting, and therefore acts in cases of depression and anxiety, but also in cases of intellectual overwork, asthenia, and lack of self-confidence. It promotes sleep and can reduce stress.

Vanilla Efficacy Tests

Sleep and Relaxation

Research ^[29] conducted at the Strasbourg University Hospital showed that premature babies reacted differently to the smell of vanilla and rancid butter. The smell of vanilla induced facial responses expressing consent, while rancid butter provoked grimaces expressing disgust. In addition, exposure to these odors led to changes in the respiratory rate: the bad smell slowed the respiratory rate, while the good smell accelerated it. Diffusion of vanilla for 24 hours reduced the number of apneas by an average of 36%, and in particular by 45% of apneas associated with severe bradycardia. Vanilla could therefore reduce episodes of agitation linked to mother-child separation . This is explained by the structure of vanillin, which is very close to one of the dominant components of breast milk and would therefore constitute an extension towards the mother.

Myrrh

Latin name: commiphora myrrha

botanical family: Burseraceae

origin: Namibia

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][30]}

Myrrh essential oil	furanosesquiterpenes	60%
	copaene	20-45%

Table 13: Chemical composition of myrrh essential oil

 

copaene	anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, calming, venous and lymphatic decongestant, hypotensive
furanosesquiterpenes	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant

Table 14: Properties of myrrh chemotypes

Through its endocrine-regulating action, myrrh stabilizes and protects the nervous system. It stimulates the development of the mind and the delight of the senses. It is also inspiring.

The Egyptians and Hebrews valued it for its effect on the psyche during religious ceremonies. It was also used for embalming the dead, childbirth, as a remedy for many illnesses, and was one of the main ingredients of Kyphi.

Myrrh Effectiveness Test

Anti-cancer action

An in vitro study ^[31]  was carried out in China to demonstrate the effectiveness of myrrh essential oil against cancer. It was proven that this essential oil promoted the inhibition of cancer cells, by inducing their apoptosis.

Figure 9: Apoptosis rate as a function of concentration and essential oil used

Ylang Ylang

Latin name: cananga odorata

botanical family: Annonaceae

Origin: Comoros

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][32][33]}

Ylang-ylang essential oil	geranyl acetate	40-60%
	benzyl benzoate
	beta caryophyllene	30-40%
	germacrene D
	geraniol	4%
	linalool	15-20%

Table 15: Chemical composition of ylang ylang essential oil

Geranyl acetate	antispasmodic, calming, hypotensive, sedative, anti-inflammatory
benzyl benzoate	anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, calming, hypotensive, sedative
geraniol	antibacterial, antifungal, antiparasitic, antiviral, immune modulator, neurotonic
linalool	calming, neurotonic, immune modulator, antibacterial, anti-fungal, anti-viral, anti-parasitic,
beta caryophyllene	anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, calming, venous and lymphatic decongestant, hypotensive
germacrene	anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, calming, venous and lymphatic decongestant, hypotensive

Table 16: Properties of ylang ylang chemotypes

Ylang ylang is above all a rebalancing agent. Indeed, it gives a feeling of security and self-confidence. It is the scent of good humor, it relaxes and awakens passion, and facilitates communication. It also combats anger, frustration, insomnia, and phobias. It also stimulates intuition and creativity, and is particularly used for people suffering from overwork, who cannot disconnect from the mind and let go.

Ylang ylang was widely used in rituals in the East. In India, this flower was everywhere in monasteries to attract the help and mercy of the gods to the faithful. The Filipinos used it to ward off fevers and infections. In Hindu monasteries, it was used in rituals to attract "cosmic helpers." Brahmins used it in their sacred balms to increase their charisma and magnetism.

Ylang Ylang Efficacy Tests

Stress and hypertension

The aim of this study ^[34] conducted in Korea was to demonstrate the effects of ylang ylang essential oil on blood pressure and saliva cortisol levels. The study was conducted on 83 patients with hypertension. One group of 28 people was to inhale ylang ylang essential oil, another group of 27 people received a placebo, and a control group received no treatment. Blood pressure was measured 10 minutes after each intervention, and cortisol levels 10 minutes after rinsing the mouth. The results are as follows:

Figure 10: Results of the blood pressure experiment

Figure 11: Evolution of cortisol levels before and after diffusion of ylang ylang

It is clear that only the group that inhaled ylang ylang essential oil showed a decrease in blood pressure and cortisol levels. This study is interesting because it rules out the placebo effect, thus showing the effectiveness of this essential oil on relaxation and stress. In addition, the study was carried out over 4 weeks, with one test on Monday and one test on Tuesday. Each time the results were similar to those presented here. This therefore shows the effectiveness of ylang ylang essential oil since it is repeated, thus eliminating the "psychological" effect.

A second study ^[35] was conducted on 29 men at Konkuk University in Korea to evaluate the effects of ylang ylang essential oil on physiological parameters. The parameters selected were skin temperature, pulse, respiration and blood pressure. The study was conducted on 2 groups, one group placed in a closed room for 20 minutes with ylang ylang diffusion, and a control group (14). The results are similar to the previous study, there is indeed a decrease in systolic and diastolic pressure.

Incense

Latin name: Boswelia carterii

Botanical family: Burseraceae

origin: Somalia

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10] [36][37][38]}

Frankincense essential oil	alpha pinene	45-55%
	limonene	10-15%
	myrcene	5-10%
	paracymene	5-10%
	sabinene	5-10%

Table 17: Chemical composition of frankincense essential oil

 

alpha pinene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant
limonene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant
myrcene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant
paracymene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant
sabinene	atmospheric antiseptic, antiviral, cortisone-like, respiratory decongestant, balsamic expectorant, lymphotonic, digestive stimulant

Table 18: Properties of frankincense chemotypes

Due to its high terpene content, frankincense has a strong endocrine-stimulating and corticomimetic action, which gives it an anxiolytic, rebalancing and revitalizing role. It is particularly useful in cases of weakened immune systems.

Furthermore, it is the only one to contain a diterpenol called incensol which has a regulatory action on several hormones; this molecule brings strength and serenity. Scientific studies even say that it would have an anticancer effect.

The beneficial properties of incense have been known for a long time; it is a sacred substance, used in religious ceremonies since the dawn of time. As the smoke rises to the sky, it was believed to appease the gods and convey prayers to them, purify a place, and influence the state of mind for meditation or other religious practices, regardless of culture.

The Egyptians, in addition to its purifying power during the embalming of the dead or against diseases, used it to "expand their consciousness" and strengthen their powers. It was dedicated to Ra, the sun god, and was also used for embalming bodies. Frankincense was also one of the gifts of the Magi, along with gold and myrrh, and was one of the ingredients of the sacred perfume (Kyphi).

Incense Effectiveness Tests

Action against pathogens

The Burceraceae family, and Boswellia in particular, is one of the most studied Eastern medicinal plants by Western scientists. In 1988, a paper published in Agents and Actions and another published in 1992 in the Journal of Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics provided insight into how Boswellia extract, or more specifically, boswellic acid, works. The latter has effects on antibody production and cell-mediated immunity. They inhibit the production of inflammatory mediators such as leukotrienes.

Frankincense and myrrh have been used in synergy since 1500 BC, but no studies had been done to demonstrate their complementary action. A study ^[39] was therefore carried out in South Africa, at the Witwatersrand University to prove the increase in efficacy against a selection of pathogens (staphylococcus aureus, bacillus cereus, pseudomonas aeruginosa, etc.). Several combinations of boswelia and myrrh were carried out and at the end of the experiment, 52.8% of the combinations carried out had a positive action compared to their use alone.

Another study ^[40] in Athens showed that frankincense essential oil was able to annihilate the viability of pancreatic cancer cells. It would be a therapeutic alternative against the cytotoxicity of tumor cells, particularly for adenocarcinomas in the pancreas.

Relaxation

At a cancer center in London ^[41] , aromatherapists worked with staff and patients to improve their well-being and quality of life. Oils were chosen to relieve nausea and promote relaxation. 514 essential oils were distributed to patients, all with different types of cancer. In the end, lavender, bergamot, and frankincense were the most used.

Sandalwood

Latin name: santalum album

botanical family: Santalaceae

origin: australia

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][42][43][44]}

Sandalwood essential oil	santalene	15.00%
	santalol	85.00%

Table 19: Chemical composition of sandalwood essential oil

santalol	cardiotonic, venous and lymphatic decongestant, hormone-like
santalene	anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, calming, venous and lymphatic decongestant, hypotensive

Table 20: Properties of sandalwood chemotypes

Santalols act directly on the pituitary gland; they therefore have a strong pheromonal character. This gives sandalwood a regulating effect on stress hormones and sex hormones. And an action comparable to that of neuroleptics. It therefore helps to evacuate worries, calm tension and nervous exhaustion, restore balance, and regain a toned psyche. It is also an excellent stimulant of the metabolism, particularly the heart.

In the East, sandalwood is deeply rooted in cultural and spiritual traditions. It is used to cover the dead and thus aid their transition to the afterlife. It is also burned at weddings so that the smoke surrounds the bride and groom. It is also renowned in traditional medicine for its ability to cool heated emotional states and help relieve excessive cogitation and anxiety.

Sandalwood Efficacy Tests

Anti-cancer action

Sandalwood and more particularly santalol has been studied ^[45] in the United States for its ability to stop the cell cycle of cancer cells. It is therefore listed as having anticancer activity during carcinogenesis thanks to this mode of action.

Clary sage

Latin name: salvia sclarea

botanical family: Lamiaceae

origin: drôme, france

Properties ^{[2][4][9][10][46]}

Clary Sage Essential Oil	linalyl acetate	75.00%
	germacrene	5-10%
	linalool	17-20%

Table 21: Chemical composition of clary sage essential oil

linalool	calming, neurotonic, immune modulator, antibacterial, anti-fungal, anti-viral, anti-parasitic,
germacrene	anti-allergic, anti-inflammatory, calming, venous and lymphatic decongestant, hypotensive
Linalyl acetate	cardiac regulator, antispasmodic, calming, hypotensive, sedative

Table 22: Properties of clary sage chemotypes

Sage essential oil is one of the most relaxing. It relaxes, releases blocked energy, and builds self-confidence. It helps you take life more lightly and broaden your mind, and helps to dispel fears, worries (especially relationship tensions), and anxieties. It has a strong stimulating effect on imagination and creativity. In addition, it helps relieve spasmodic pain.

In Latin, salvia means to heal or save. In many ancient cultures, sage had protective and purifying properties. It was also used to develop spiritual maturity and wisdom. It was one of the most important medicinal plants in the European Middle Ages, used by monks to treat the sick with various ailments, as it was "good for everything."

Clary Sage Efficacy Tests

Stress

A study ^[47] conducted by the National Research Foundation of Korea was conducted on 34 women . Each patient breathed sage essential oil during a gynecological examination. Heart rate, respiratory rate, and blood pressure were measured to study the physiological responses of the autonomic nervous system under stressful conditions. Cortisol levels were also recorded before and after the examination.

Figure 12: Results after inhalation of sage essential oil

Figure 13: Evolution of cortisol levels before and after inhalation of sage essential oil

Conclusion

The power of nature and plants has been well known since the dawn of time. It is common to all cultures. It is used in medicine, through herbal medicine, and more specifically aromatherapy for essential oils.

More recently, scientists have turned their attention to a previously little-studied sense: smell. It has proven to be our most primitive, yet certainly our most complex, sense. Aromachology has demonstrated that odors directly influence our psyche, and consequently our behavior. Theories on the quantum nature of olfaction have subsequently emerged, justifying that essential oils provide more than their well-known biochemical properties in aromatherapy, by drawing their energy from nature.

Aromaparfumerie® is a combination of these benefits offered by nature and fine perfumery. The active heart present in each fragrance combines the pleasure of the senses with the care of the body and mind.

Glossary

Apoptosis: (or programmed cell death) is the process by which cells trigger their self-destruction in response to a signal.

Chemotype: a distinct chemical entity within the same species .

Cortisol: steroid hormone secreted by the cortex from cholesterol. It regulates blood sugar, immune system responses, and fat metabolism. It is representative of stress: its level increases in cases of stress.

Wave-particle duality: Quantum physics has successfully demonstrated the dual nature of light, both particle and wave-like, and thus quantified energy. This demonstrates the power of the molecule, beyond its mere composition.

Nature-identical: a compound chemically identical to natural compounds, obtained by synthesis. These synthetic products are not molecules invented by man, but copied from nature.

Lymphotonics: activates circulation within the lymphatic system (or network).

Neurotonic: which restores the tone of the nervous system without exciting it.

Pheromone: chemical substance or mixture of substances produced by exocrine glands triggering physiological or behavioral reactions between individuals of the same species .

Quantum Physics: Quantum physics covers all areas of physics where the use of the laws of quantum mechanics is necessary to understand the phenomena at play. Quantum mechanics is the fundamental theory of the matter particles constituting the objects in the universe and the force fields animating these objects. It brings to light notions such as space-time, relativity, and the quantum of energy.

Systolic and diastolic pressure: Systolic pressure is the pressure in the blood vessels when the heart contracts. Diastolic pressure is the pressure in the blood vessels between contractions.

Principle of non-separability: Two corpuscles that have been in contact at a given moment remain united forever, even when separated by infinite distances. Thus, any modification of one will be transmitted to the other, which is correlated to it beyond space-time. This highlights the connection between the essential oil extracted from the plant and the latter.

Sympathicotonic: excites the sympathetic nervous system which is involved in particular in muscle contraction and heart rate .

Endocrine system: A set of organs and tissues that release hormones into the blood.

 

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