Pot de crème Lily Ambre, étiquette liste INCI peu d'ingrédients pour un produit sain

Deciphering the INCI list of cosmetic products: what you need to know

Laboratoire Aimée

Decoding a cosmetic label is a bit like discovering an unknown language: confusing at first glance, but full of meaning for those who take the time to learn it. Behind these often unpronounceable Latin or English words, the INCI list hides a valuable compass for those who want to take conscious care of themselves.

Mandatory on all beauty products, it can become a valuable ally, provided you know how to interpret it. For women attentive to their hormonal balance, the health of their children and the impact of their actions on the planet, learning to read this list is already choosing a more informed beauty.

In this article, we guide you step by step to identify endocrine disruptors and make safer, more peaceful, more transparent choices.

What is the INCI list?

The INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list lists all the ingredients contained in a cosmetic product, whether it's a facial treatment, shampoo, or perfume. Created in the United States in 1973 and made mandatory in Europe in the late 1990s, it aims to standardize labeling for greater transparency. It's found on all packaging, often printed in small print, relegated to the back of bottles, and yet it says it all.

The names are written in Latin for natural extracts (e.g. Aqua for water) or in English for chemical substances (e.g. Castor oil for castor oil).

How to read the INCI list of a cosmetic product?

The order of ingredients

Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration. Those listed at the top are therefore the most abundant. But be careful: ingredients present at less than 1% may be listed out of order, which can minimize the presence of controversial substances.

The main families of ingredients

Here are the most common categories:

  • Water (Aqua): often at the top, it forms the basis of many products.
  • Plant extracts: identified by the word extract . They are known for their soothing or antioxidant properties.
  • Vegetable/essential oils: identified by oil , they nourish and protect the skin (e.g.: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil , or Argan vegetable oil).
  • Alcohols: cetyl alcohol , stearyl alcohol (fat, sweet) vs alcohol denat. (more irritating).
  • Preservatives: in organic products, only certain ones are authorized (sorbic acid, benzoic acid, etc.).
  • Perfume / fragrance: a vague term, especially in conventional terms, because it can hide many molecules, often controversial or dangerous.
  • Organic or natural ingredients: often indicated by an asterisk (*), with a legend at the bottom of the label.

Endocrine disruptors: how to spot them in the INCI list?

Substances capable of interfering with our hormonal system even at very low doses, disruptors are found in cosmetics . Their impact is particularly worrying for children, pregnant women or those undergoing hormonal transition.

Here is a list of the most commonly found endocrine disruptors in cosmetics:

  • Parabens: methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben;
  • Phenoxyethanol (phenoxyethanol);
  • Triclosan;
  • Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (chemical UV filter);
  • Octocrylene;
  • BHT, BHA (synthetic antioxidants);
  • Siloxanes: cyclopentasiloxane, cyclotetrasiloxane etc. ;
  • Phthalates: often hidden under perfume/fragrance;
  • Alkylphenols;
  • Benzophenone-1, -3, -4;
  • Toluene;
  • Petrolatum / paraffinum liquidum (petrochemical derivatives which may contain impurities);
  • PEG (polyethylene glycols): followed by a number (e.g. PEG-40);

Although most endocrine disruptors are regulated , they are not necessarily banned. Limitations may be imposed on quantities or forms (for example, a ban on nanoparticles), or even both.

It's important to be aware of EDCs because, while regulations exist to protect us, they don't take into account the cocktail effect; the combination of several products containing endocrine disruptors. Learning to spot them becomes essential to minimize your exposure.

To go further: consult our list of dangerous cosmetic products .

Tools to decipher the INCI list more easily

Fortunately, there are apps available to everyone that can help you see things more clearly:

  • INCI Beauty: by scanning a barcode, you obtain an analysis of the ingredients, with a color code indicating their risk level (endocrine disruptor, allergen, irritant, etc.).
  • Yuka: Very popular, it displays an overall rating and allows you to view problematic ingredients. By clicking on each ingredient, you can see if it is an endocrine disruptor, and discover its impact on health and even on the environment .

These tools facilitate the transition to safer products, but be careful not to place blind trust in them: they do not replace a critical eye or knowledge.

Choosing the right cosmetics: tips for healthy beauty

Here are some simple steps to adopt a healthier routine that respects your hormonal balance:

  • Favor short lists: fewer ingredients often means fewer risks.
  • Avoid risky synthetic substances: phthalates, parabens, PEG, BHA, etc.
  • Favor transparent and committed brands that clearly display the composition and exclude endocrine disruptors.
  • Rely on recognized certifications: Cosmos Organic, Ecocert, Nature & Progrès. These labels prohibit certain controversial ingredients.
  • Beware of greenwashing: "Natural" or "hypoallergenic" doesn't mean free of disruptors. Learn to read beyond marketing promises.
  • Turning to responsible brands: A pioneer in natural and sensory fragrance, Aimée de Mars is committed to beauty that respects the body, soul, and the Earth. Its formulations strictly exclude endocrine disruptors, in a sincere and caring approach.

What to remember

Deciphering the INCI list is like lifting the veil on what we apply to our skin every day. It's an act of lucidity, but also of love for ourselves, others, and the planet.

By identifying endocrine disruptors, using the right tools, and trusting committed brands, you can take back control of your beauty routine. Because behind every choice lies an intention. And choosing safe skincare is already taking care of yourself.

Sources

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