Endocrine disruptors in perfumes: myth or reality?

An endocrine disruptor is a molecule that can interfere with the normal functioning of our hormones, even if it is present in very low doses in a product.

The presence of these microscopic molecules in many cosmetic products raises real concerns. Indeed, they can impair fertility, increase the risk of certain hormone-dependent cancers, and even disrupt the development and growth of children.

They are found everywhere, especially in everyday hygiene products: soaps, creams, makeup, hair care, perfumes…

In the latter case, vigilance is essential. Indeed, fragrance waters (eau de toilette, eau de parfum, eau de cologne) are applied directly to the skin, inhaled, and often used from adolescence or even childhood. They are problematic not only because of the endocrine disruptors they contain but also for other reasons.

The components of perfumes: what do we really find?

A conventional perfume is not just a natural fragrance. It combines many chemical components, including:

• Allergens (limonene, linalool, geraniol): mandatorily listed, their presence is one of the first identified risks.
• Substances identified as endocrine disruptors: phthalates (including DEP) used as fixatives, some synthetic musks, UV filters added to stabilize the formula and extend the perfume’s longevity.
• Toxic substances: solvents or preservatives releasing formaldehyde and other problematic compounds.
• Colorants: present solely to give a certain color to products, yet they bring harmful substances that could easily be avoided…
• Volatile organic compounds: directly contributing to indoor and outdoor air pollution.
• Irritants: high concentrations of alcohol in some eau de toilette or eau de parfum.

Some major houses or brands of eau de Cologne made in Provence still use these traditional processes, even if they now show more transparency and some progress in safety.

Focus on endocrine disruptors in perfumes

Phthalates, which we briefly mentioned earlier, are chemical compounds widely used in everyday consumer products: perfumes, shampoos, deodorants, plastics, and food packaging.

Their role is often to fix odors or soften materials. These substances are classified as endocrine disruptors, capable of disturbing the production and regulation of human hormones—but not only that: they also affect ecosystems, making them environmentally concerning.

Scientific studies highlight worrying effects, especially during developmental phases: during pregnancy, early childhood, and adolescence. For example, a recent study showed that significant exposure to phthalates increased the risk of ADHD-related behaviors in teenagers by 25%.

But the consequences don’t stop there, as in adults, these compounds have been linked to cardiovascular diseases. Another study even revealed that stopping the use of beauty products containing phthalates led to a rapid measurable improvement: after only 28 days without exposure, participants showed not only a significant drop in urinary phthalate concentrations but also a decrease in the expression of cancer-related genes.

Faced with these results, some manufacturers still believe the evidence is insufficient to justify a ban. However, for Andrea Gore, professor of pharmacology and toxicology at the University of Texas at Austin, the signals are already clear enough: she recommends minimizing exposure, especially for families and parents of young children, who are particularly vulnerable. This caution is all the more necessary as the European regulation on endocrine disruptors remains limited and evolves slowly.

How to better choose your perfumes?

Before choosing a perfume, it is important to consider those most sensitive to endocrine disruptors. Pregnant women, children, teenagers, people with allergies or asthma, and those with hormone-related conditions (PCOS, endometriosis, thyroid problems, for example): these groups require increased vigilance. For them, every ingredient counts, and simplicity becomes a true guarantee of safety.

Fortunately, it is now possible to wear perfume with peace of mind, provided you know how to decode labels, spot the right certifications, and explore natural alternatives suited to each profile.

1. Spot the right certifications at a glance

Many certifications now help identify perfumes made without controversial ingredients. The most recognized, such as COSMOS, Nature & Progrès, or Natrue, for example, guarantee the absence of petrochemical substances, problematic preservatives, or synthetic fragrances.

These certifications also require full transparency on composition, an environmentally respectful approach, and often local and/or ethical manufacturing.

Good to know: a perfume certified Cosmos Organic or Nature & Progrès excludes, for example, the use of phthalates, nitro musks, or other synthetic fixatives still common in conventional perfumery.

Want to learn more? Find our full article on certifications guaranteeing cosmetics without endocrine disruptors.

2. Learn to read between the lines

Even without certification, some information on the label can already help you assess a perfume’s composition. This involves careful—and sometimes technical—reading of the famous INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients), mandatory on all cosmetic products sold in Europe.

Examples of mentions to decode:

• “Parfum” or “Fragrance”: these generic terms can refer to a blend of several dozen molecules, natural or synthetic. In conventional perfumery, they sometimes mask the presence of phthalates or synthetic musk.
• Declared allergens (limonene, geraniol, linalool…): their mention is mandatory above a certain threshold. These components are often natural (from essential oils) but can irritate sensitive skin.
• Technical or abbreviated terms: such as DEP (diethyl phthalate), BHT, or benzyl salicylate. Some of these are suspected endocrine disruptors or allergens.

Reading a label well doesn’t require being a chemist but does require some simple habits. The shorter the INCI list, the better. A minimalist formulation often means transparency… and safety.

To go further, discover our guide: How to decode the INCI list to spot endocrine disruptors?

3. Explore healthier alternatives

Natural perfumery today offers a wide variety of options for those who want to combine olfactory pleasure and safety. Unlike conventional perfumes, these alternatives focus on simpler compositions, often 100% natural origin, without synthetic fixatives or petrochemical ingredients.

Among the most popular formats:

• Solid perfumes: convenient to carry, alcohol-free, ideal for dry or sensitive skin.
• Natural eau de parfums: formulated with essential oils, they offer rich olfactory complexity. Note: some allergens may be listed because they are naturally present in the essential oils used. Their plant origin and controlled dosage distinguish them from controversial synthetic ingredients. At Aimée de Mars, we go even further by ensuring our essential oil formulas do not make perfumes photosensitizing. Our perfumes can be used during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
• Hydrosols and floral waters: perfect for children or for light daily use.

At Aimée de Mars, perfumes are formulated from organic wheat alcohol not chemically denatured, living Celtic spring water, and natural perfumes based on noble essential oils and flower absolutes. No synthetic ingredients or suspected endocrine disruptors are used in their creation: they contain no phthalates, synthetic musks, chemical filters, or controversial preservatives like BHT, and can be used even during pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Conclusion: myth or reality?

Reality! The presence of endocrine disruptors in eau de parfums, eau de toilette, eau parfum, or eau de cologne is not a myth. Studies conducted in Europe, the United States, and Canada confirm that these chemical substances are still present in formulas.

Vigilance remains key. To reduce exposure to endocrine disruptors, every action counts: choose certified perfumes, carefully read the INCI list, favor simpler formats, especially for more sensitive profiles… By combining these good habits, you protect not only your health but also that of your loved ones—children, teenagers, pregnant women—and even the environment.

Some brands have chosen to go beyond mere regulatory compliance. This is the case with Aimée de Mars, a pioneer in creating perfumes without endocrine disruptors. Awaken your senses with fragrances that reflect you: discover our selection of perfumes without endocrine disruptors.