White musk: what is it, and does 100% natural musk exist?

There are scents we recognize before we know what to call them: a sheet dried in the sun, a favorite scarf, skin just after a shower. White musk is one of them, and behind its softness lies a history of perfumery more surprising than it might seem.

White musk: a scent before it is a material

White musk is recognized by its softness. It smells of clean cotton, light powder, and sometimes the warmth of skin, without ever being sharp or overly sweet. Used as a base note, it is not always noticeable at first contact, but it envelops the other notes and prolongs their presence. Many describe it as a “clean” or “skin-like” scent, which aptly reflects its discreet nature. This familiar impression is partly due to the fact that musky notes are found in many everyday products, from laundry detergent to skincare.

On the skin, a musky accord evolves slowly and mingles with your own scent. This is what gives it its reputation for a “second-skin” effect: it stays close to the body, is perceived mainly up close, and leaves a soft, understated trail. Depending on the person, it may seem more powdery, warmer, or cleaner, because the skin's texture and warmth affect how it diffuses. White musk is therefore not a spectacular note, but a base note that provides lasting power and roundness. To understand where it comes from, we need to go back to a material that has almost disappeared from perfume bottles.

From animal musk to today's musks

Musk of animal origin

Originally, musk referred to a secretion produced by the gland of the musk deer, a small deer found in the mountains of Asia. This highly potent material was sought for centuries for its ability to fix and warm fragrances. Its harvesting contributed to the decline of several species in the genus Moschus, whose trade is now strictly regulated by the Washington Convention (CITES). Animal musk has become marginal in perfumery, and it is not used in any Aimée de Mars creation. Its name has remained, attached to a family of scents rather than to a material.

Synthetic musks and the birth of white musk

From the late 19th century onward, chemists developed molecules capable of reproducing this musky facet. Several generations followed, with different chemical structures, and some were restricted or withdrawn from cosmetics as safety assessments progressed. It was with these clean, soft, long-lasting molecules that the accord now known as white musk was created. It is therefore an olfactory creation rather than an ingredient extracted from a plant or animal. Aimée de Mars made a different choice: its formulas are developed without synthetic musks or phthalates, seeking the musky facet in plants.

Is there a 100% natural musk?

Yes, provided you are not seeking an exact copy of animal musk or synthetic musks. Nature offers a few rare and precious materials with musky facets. Ambrette seed, from a plant in the mallow family (Abelmoschus moschatus), naturally contains a musky molecule, ambrettolide, which gives it a soft, slightly fruity, powdery scent. Angelica root also contains small amounts of musky compounds, blended with its green, earthy notes. Other materials, such as iris and sandalwood, provide the powdery softness and roundness associated with musk.

Yet these materials pose challenges for perfumers. They are expensive, their scent varies from one harvest to another, and none is sufficient on its own to offer the longevity of a synthetic musk. The challenge of creating a 100% naturally derived musk is to combine several plant-based materials to achieve softness, roundness, and lasting power all at once. This blend relies more on the perfumer's expertise than on simply replacing one ingredient with another. This is the work carried out at the Aimée de Mars garden laboratory.

Aiméenolide®, Aimée de Mars's plant-based musk

To address natural perfumery's main challenge, longevity and sillage, Valérie Demars, founder and perfumer, created Aiméenolide®, the house's proprietary plant-based musk. It is made exclusively from natural materials, including ambrette, iris, carrot, and sandalwood, and is added to every fragrance alongside the fragrance concentrate. Its role is twofold: to provide a soft, musky, powdery quality that prolongs the other notes, and to slow the evaporation of the most volatile materials. Since 2024, the house's entire fragrance collection has been formulated with 100% naturally derived ingredients thanks to this innovation. Discover its role in the making of a fragrance on the laboratory page, or explore our natural fragrances.

Wearing a natural musky note every day

Let the fragrance settle

A natural musky note reveals itself above all over time. The first few minutes belong to the top notes, then the softness of Aiméenolide® and the base notes gradually appears as the fragrance settles. So give it a moment before judging it. Spray it onto warmer areas of the skin, such as the base of the neck, wrists, or crooks of the elbows, without rubbing. These simple gestures give each layer of the composition room to emerge.

To prolong the presence of a musky note, first apply a neutral, fragrance-free cream or plant-based oil to the areas where you will apply your fragrance. Hydrated skin holds aromatic materials better and releases them more slowly. You can also spray a touch onto a scarf, where base notes often last longer than on skin. A natural fragrance may not suit every skin type: if yours is sensitive, test it first on a small area. The house's formulas are phthalate-free and contain no synthetic musks.

What notes to pair it with

Musky notes blend with almost every fragrance family, making them a highly versatile base. With iris and white flowers, they enhance the powdery, clean impression. With rose, they create a more intimate trail, close to the skin. Combined with tonka bean or vanilla, they take on a warmer, more enveloping character. With woods such as sandalwood or vetiver, they soften the dry, earthy facets. To explore these combinations on your skin, the discovery sets are an ideal introduction.

Why musky notes evoke comfort

The link between a scent and an emotion is not mysterious. The olfactory bulb, which receives information from the sense of smell, is directly connected to the areas of the brain linked to emotion and memory. This is why a scent can bring back a memory before we even know how to name it. Musky notes often recall clean laundry, skin, or an embrace, and many people associate them with a feeling of softness and security. This sensation is personal, and that is what matters most.

White musk thus tells a story of replacement: an animal-derived material became an idea of a scent, then a synthetic accord became familiar. When asked whether 100% natural musk exists, the answer is yes, provided it is understood as a blend of plant-based materials rather than a copy. This is the path chosen by Aimée de Mars with Aiméenolide®, which gives the house's perfumes their lasting power and this skin-close softness. Wearing a musky note then becomes a simple gesture, designed to accompany a moment of calm and perfume your inner state. A perfume for being yourself, as close as possible to your own scent.

Find the perfume that reflects you

To find the composition that suits you, the Aromatest guides you through a few questions, while the discovery sets let you try several trails on your skin. Each bottle comes with two complimentary samples, including one of the perfume ordered, so you can try it before opening the bottle. Exchanges are free within 30 days as long as the bottle has not been used (offer valid in mainland France). Aimée de Mars is the French women's favorite natural perfume brand, according to a Femme Actuelle survey.

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